Home

Accomodation & Prices

Things to see & do

Eating & drinking out

Flamenco

Around Jerez

Upcoming Events

Glossary

Links

Eating and Drinking out.

Meal times may take some getting used to, Jerezanos tend to have a typical desayuno of coffee and toast from about 9 to 10:30, an aperitivo at around 1:30, comida at 2:30, an afternoon merienda of coffee and a pastry anywhere from 5 to 7, and a light cena at around 9:30 or 10. Of course in summer, these times roll forward to compensate for the heat. Near the Riad, Bar Maypa on the Cruz Vieja is a good place for breakfast or a glass of sherry and a light snack between meals. Xipe on calle Lanceria or Bar Zarza Mora (try the tostada con tomate, toast with a tomato garlic spread) on calle Algarve all do basic breakfasts. More for the midday or evening tapa, La Cruz Blanca in plaza de la Yerba (in front of the Ayuntamiento), or La Moderna on calle Larga. The latter is a veritable institution in Jerez, the place where the suit and tie crowd shares bar space with punks, hippies and flamencos. In recent renovations the owners uncovered an ancient well in the middle of the bar and parts of the massive fortifications which surrounded medieval Jerez and have incorporated it into the decor. Recently opened and around the corner from us in Barrio San Miguel is La Abaceria, a quaint watering hole open at midday and at night, serving a good selection of local tapas in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old andalusian venta. They also sell typical local food products, great for souvenirs.

Also good for tapas and drinks to start the night, Bar Cruz Blanca, across from the Town Hall, El Almacen and Meson el Reino de Leon, both on calle Latorre, or Bar Arriate on calle Francos, near Cine Astoria and convenient if you are attending the Viernes Flamencos in August or a performance in the Sala Compañia. It has a decidedly Flamenco atmosphere. Another good local evening hangout for a glass of sherry and tapas is Bar la Callejuela (closed Mondays), a tiny non-descript place on a small side street just off of Plaza Plateros, where you´ll find a number of bars with outdoor seating in the recently finished square. Non-smokers will be delighted to know that the owner has made Bar Callejuela a non-smoking establishment, one of the few to do so in Jerez. A little bit further away from the action in the centre is El Colmao, on calle Arcos 42 in front of the Coronación church and the Lustau Bodegas. Run by Carlos Grilo, brother of world famous flamenco dancer Joaquin Grilo, it opens its doors in the evenings and has been a gathering point for flamenco enthusiasts. During the recent Flamenco Festival it was scene to some memorable juergas that included notorious figures such as El Torta singing until the late hours. Definitely worth checking out if you are looking for flamenco ambience.

For meals there is no shortage of places but they are lacking in variety. Jerezanos are proud of their local cuisine and foreign food is regarded with some suspicion here. This basically means difficulties for vegetarians eating out and a near impossible situation for vegans, though not to give up hope. More and more restaurants are understanding the differences in eating habits. Sin carne, jamon o pescado are what you can tell the waiter if you want to make sure that a plate doesn't contain meat. And now on calle Bizcocheros there is a recently opened health food supermarket called Mundo Verde, supplying the once absent vegetarian staples such as soy milk, tofu, etc.

The centerpieces of Jerez’s hearty peasant fare are berza and puchero, the former a chickpea, cardoon and sausage stew, and the latter a chicken vegetable soup which makes up a meal in itself. Rabo de toro, braised ox tail, is a delicious specialty, as is venao en salsa, game meat in a sherried sauce. Riñones al Jerez are kidneys, also cooked in sherry wine. Jerez also benefits from its proximity to the ocean, common here is the pescao frito, usually a selection of fried dogfish, cuttlefish, baby squid or shrimp (cazon, choco, puntillitas and gambas, respectively) In summer there is the well known gazpacho, a tomato liquid salad, and Jerez produces a heartier, thicker variation on the theme served hot in the winter months, ajo campero (country garlic, a tomato, pepper, garlic and bread porridge).

Many restaurants offer a menú turístico, which for a set price usually includes 2 dishes, bread, a drink and dessert. Particularly recommended is the Posada de Maria, recently moved from its location off of calle Porvera to calle Compañia, across from the church. For 9 euros Maria will absolutely stuff you until you can’t take any more, and then bring out sinful desserts. Also very good menús can be found at the La Bodeguilla on calle Zarza (near the Riad), or Bar Molino by the Cathedral. For more upmarket eating, the Pescadería Vieja has a few restaurants, the best known being Bar Juanito. It’s about as touristy as it gets in Jerez but the food is good and the surroundings pleasant. A new restaurante run by a very engaging owner, Javier, has just opened up on Calle Caballeros 13 (near the Riad). Trocha Bar is good for a copita de jerez and does creatively executed traditional Jerez fare in a tasteful setting. For a real splurge, Restaurante Gaitan, on calle Gaitan, is considered one of the best restaurants in the centre.

For a bit of variety, there are two good Italian restaurants, Bellaquio near the Alameda Vieja and Ristorante San Juan, in front of the San Juan de los Caballeros church. The latter has an excellent ambience and good food, less expensive than Bellaquio. Tel. 956 32 64 71 to book a table (recommended). Recently opened is La Bossa Nova, calle Santa Rosa 12 (just off Plaza San Andres), which serves Italian, Mexican and Brazilian food in a funky atmosphere of newspaper collages and a tropically inspired dining room. It also serves as a late night bar with hip ambient music and charming Italian owners.

Vegetarians will be pleased to learn that a new restaurant La Alternativa, is open on Calle San Pablo (opposite the tasca of the same name). Support diversity in Jerez!

If you are visiting from late November to mid March, it is customary to drive out to one of the number of ventas or small country restaurants on the outskirts of Jerez, where they offer traditional food and serve mosto, the grape juice removed from the sherry making process and consumed in great quantities by the locals. The alcohol content is much lower than sherry but be warned, mosto packs a punch. Particularly good is the Viña San Cayetano out behind the Croft bodega, or Venta Domi on the Carretera de Trebujena. Also just off the same Carretera is Bodegon La Blanco Paloma, slightly more upscale with pleasant outdoor seating and a wider choice of menu options. They occasionally stage flamenco performances which are usually advertised in posters around the city centre. When looking for ventas keep an eye out for the red flag on the road which indicates the establishment has mosto.

For drinks out the Plaza Vargas has about four bars, the most lively probably being La Carboneria. It is owned by the same people as El Almacen and Café Central which is good for coffee and cake. A bit further away, near plaza Mercado is Bereber, a beautiful bar in the shell of an old palace that reminds one of the Alhambra. Beautiful gardens surrounded by Roman arches and high stone walls, with occasional live music and two seperate discos. Jerez once was dotted with typical tascas, real spit and sawdust places that served sherry straight from barrels brought from the wine cellars. The era of the tascas has virtually disappeared, but there is still the very traditional Tasca San Pablo on calle San Pablo, with old bullfighting posters and wine barrels stacked to the walls. The whole street gets packed on weekend nights. There is a tetería or tea house on calle Chancillera, which has a Moroccan atmosphere and does all nature of teas and other non-alcoholic drinks. A bit more alternative and near the Riad, Café Arenal on calle Caballeros plays good music with occasional djs and atmospheric setting. Los Tres Monos on calle Pollo has the feel of an American bar featuring rock music, cocktails, shots, and snacks such as nachos with cheese or chili con carne. Bar Damajuana, on calle Francos, usually has great atmosphere and frequent concerts in their lovely patio. A few new bars for the hip crowd are Audrey, opposite the Basilica del Carmen, and Bitter Club, just around the corner. Both places feature ocassional djs.

Jerez can’t really boast of a gay scene, but you can find good ambiente by driving or taking a taxi out to the nearby village of Guadalcacin on Saturdays where you’ll find Fangoria, a gay-lesbian discotheque. If you are driving be very careful on your way back to Jerez however, this road is the favorite spot for a police alcohol checkpoint. See upcoming events for what’s on in Jerez in November.