Flamenco
(pictures)
If the question is, “what is Flamenco really about?” I believe
that the answer is in Jerez. Much is printed on the web and talked about
in flamenco circles about the origins of Flamenco, and there is the
endless debate as to the role that gypsies have had to play in this
art form’s evolution. It is not my intention to editorialise with
my own comments, I simply believe that the key to understanding flamenco
is to spend time in an atmosphere where flamenco is a living day to
day reality.
The word Flamenco is not just a reference to song, dance or guitar,
but a euphemism for an entire way of life. Some of the most flamenco
characters I’ve met were neither singers, dancers or guitarists,
but expressed themselves and lived their lives in such a way as to make
them as much an essential member of so many late night flamenco juergas
as the artists themselves. Poverty, desperation, longing, these are
aspects that because of or in spite of them, contribute to flamenco’s
power. But joy, however melancholy, also plays its part. So does that
thing which the philospher Miguel de Unamuno termed, el sentido
trágico de la vida, the tragic sense of life.
Flamenco, I believe, will not be found in a dance academy or a guitar
studio, or in a crowded theatre, but it may be found in an isolated
bar late at night, among a crowd of drunks that suddenly hush to listen
to one of them break out in a lament. Or down a poorly lit street, with
a lone gypsy singing to himself in the shadows, walking back towards
God knows what kind of home in Santiago or San Miguel. It may only be
a moment, but when you experience it you will realise what it is, that
unmistakable sensation which everyone can feel but no one can describe,
and that one moment may provide you with a lifetime of illumination.
PEÑAS:
The flamenco peñas in Jerez are, much to the surprise of many,
not as old as one would think. The oldest and the most prestigious,
Los Cernicalos, located a stone’s throw from
the Riad, dates back some 35 years, the first peña to be founded
in the province of Cádiz and the second in all of Spain. The
peña is not only an excellent way of hearing the best that Jerez
Flamenco has to offer, it is a meeting point where foreigner and local
alike socialise without any pretension or prejudice. In a scene where
being a foreigner is an almost insurmountable barrier, the peña
is a place of acceptance where all good enthusiasts of flamenco cante
gather. A friend commented to me once that the scene felt somewhat like
a church congregation, and it’s true-people gather, hoping to
experience those rare moments when guitarist, cantaor, and
audience all come together and Flamenco has the power of catharsis.
The Jerez peña scene is also unique-to get in you only pay for
what you drink at the bar, there is no requirement for membership, no
fee at the door. This also means you should do your part and help contribute
to keep the scene alive. A tip on local peña custom, seats, though
not as a rule, are usually for the peña members or women. The
men you will usually find in the back drinking at the bar! An asterisk
denotes places in San Miguel which are a brief walk from the Riad.
Asociacion
cultural Los Juncales- on calle Nueva. The exception to the
Jerez peña rule. You can pretty much forget about getting in
unless you have a good contact or are incredibly lucky. No pre-scheduled
performances, just a gathering place for a close circle of some of the
finest gypsy performers in Santiago.
Asociación
Cultural Fernando Terremoto-calle Terremoto de Jerez s/n Pago
San Jose. moved a few years ago from its location in Barriada la Asuncion,
this is a very new looking peña with much more seating than the
previous one, though a bit more sterile in atmosphere. A bit difficult
to find if you’re driving, but it's in the direction of Club
Nazaret and Parque Atlantico, heading East
under the bridge and past the train station.
Centro Cultural
Don Antonio Chacon- calle Salas 2. Next to San Juan church.
An excellent and large peña, one of the focal points for the
after hours scene during the Spring Flamenco Festival.
The bar is manned by the Tota (Luis and Ali) twins, two brothers who
often appear as palmeros in local performances and are delightful
to see with their sense of compas and the expressive singing
of the buleria.
Peña
la Zua-Barriada Barbadillo, calle Albadalejo 38. Not many people
make it out to la Zua, which is a shame. This pena with a very neighborhood
feel is tiny and cluttered with all sorts of memorabilia from Spain
of old. A major drawback is the sad state of the sound system, given
the size of the peña everyone would be better off without any
amplification at all. Drinks are cheap, the people couldn’t be
friendlier and more welcoming, and though the peña doesn’t
usually receive some of the bigger names it more than compensates with
its honesty and lack of pretension.
*Peña
El Garbanzo- Calle Santa Clara 9. A charming peña, the
second oldest in Jerez, which does infrequent concerts. El Garbanzo
is an elder member of the Carpio clan, a major branch
of the Jerez Flamenco family tree. Due to the deteriorating state of
the building the peña is housed in, plans are underway to relocate
it somewhere in San Miguel.
Peña
el Pescaero-Carretera Arcos Calle Mosa s/n Barriada El Rocio.
Enthusiasts who have been coming to Jerez for years will lament at the
move this peña has made from its previous location, which was
essentially a garage! Like the Zua, it was a very local feeling atmosphere,
very welcoming to foreigners. The new place does preserve that sentiment,
and there is much more seating, but the newness has diminished the peña
somewhat.
Peña
la Buena Gente- plaza San Lucas 9. Recently the building this
wonderful peña was housed in was torn down, along with a few
other old buildings in the vicinity, in order to build luxury apartments.
A shame, because despite its smallness it had an excellent flamenco
atmosphere. Plans were announced in March 2006 for the building of a
three story home for the peña to be located between Abades
and Lepanto streets, practically in front of the Cathedral.
*Peña
la Buleria- calle Mariñiguez 15. An excellent peña,
formerly where Ana María Lopez had her dance studio (now in Los
Cernicalos). Most well known flamenco figures have performed in these
halls. You can poke your head in and have a look during the day, the
bar in the front services the locals. This peña will soon have
a new home nearby on calle Empedrada 20.
*Peña
los Cernícalos- calle Sancho Vizcaino 23. The Riad’s
own neighborhood peña, and the grandaddy of them all, located
near the plaza Cristo de la Expiracion. An excellent
peña with wide prestige throughout Andalucia. They host numerous
acts throughout the year, including an excellent zambomba at
Christmastime, and are currently where famed Jerez flamenco dance teacher
Ani Lopez gives classes.
Peña
Tio José de Paula- calle Merced 11. This peña
opened its doors at its new, expanded location on #13 of Calle Merced,
on September 30, 2006. A very gypsy peña in a very gypsy neighborhood.
Some who remember the old peña may miss the intimate setting,
as the new peña is much expanded and modern feeling.
Tertulia Flamenca Pepe Alconchel- Pago San José,
calle Castaño 2. Out by the Terremoto peña, a very friendly
gathering place which features among others, up and coming flamenco
artists in an annual series entitled "Jovenes Valores".
Peña
Manuel Soto Sordera- calle Carpinteros 3. This peña
in the heart of Santiago, little known in Jerez, is dedicated to the
memory of the great Don Manuel who died a few short years ago. Living
for years next door to this peña gave me the greatest instruction
to the nature of cante flamenco. Only occasional performances,
but has an excellent zambomba gitana out on the street in December.
TABLAOS
The tablao these days is where new artists get their start, performing
for the tourist market which comes to see enjoy above all flamenco dance.
On the whole the show is good, though a bit pricey when you consider
that the peña performances are free. Outside the busy peña
seasons, however, the tablaos are decent substitutes and gives the visitor
a sampling of Flamenco from Jerez. They have a nightly dinner plus show.
La Taberna
Flamenca-Angostillo de Santiago 3. www.latabernaflamenca.com
Tel. 956 32 36 93
El Laga de Tio Parilla-Plaza del Mercado s/n. Tel.
956 33 83 34
And just recently
inaugurated is the Bereber
Flamenco Tablao, located within the charming complex on
calle Cabezas 10, just off Plaza del Mercado. Bereber
will offer a nightly flamenco performance with a meal, and even arrange
transportation to the tablao, from such places as Novi Sancti Petri
in Chiclana, Costa Ballena, El Puerto and Cadiz, all for the modicum
sum of 95 euros per person. Check their website for special guest peformers,
most recently Jose Mercé and Moraito
have performed there, as well as Diego Carrasco.
DANCE
ACADEMIES
Jerez is considered an excellent place to study dance, for despite lacking
perhaps in technique and style that you find in places like Seville
and Madrid, Jerez is all soul, rhythm and the true heartbeat of flamenco.
Many a dancer have commented that training is incomplete without spending
at least some time here learning the fundaments of dance as it relates
to cante. Certainly this is true of the bulerias style,
which Jerez proudly and rightly claims as its own. To dial these numbers
from abroad you must first include the Spain country code,
which is 34.
*Manuela
Carpio- Edif de la Caja de Ahorros de Jerez planta alta. Tel.
956 34 67 31
*Ana Maria Lopez- Formerly in the Peña la Buleria,
now holding classes in the Peña Los Cernicalos (down the street
from us!).
Juan Parra- Calle Castaños 5. Tel. 956 32 27
27
*Academia de Baile “Chiqui de Jerez”- Calle
Empedrada 32 Tel. 956 349 546 / 609 980 284. Tel. Fax 956 335 871, or
e-mail, chiquijerez1@hotmail.com.
Compañia de Flamenco El Pipa- Calle Ponce 6.
Tel. 956 33 29 14 /606 115 549
Centro de Baile
Jerez- c./ Rusia 47 Guadabajaque Tel. 956 140 406
*Estudio
de Baile Mercedes Ruiz-
Calle Baro 2D
Patricia
Ibañez Centro de Baile Flamenco- C./ Merced 9 Tel. 956
141 335 or 650 166 654.
Escuela de
Baile Maria del Mar Moreno- Calle Porvera 22 Tel. 956 32 33
78
CANTE
Very difficult to find, foreigners wanting to learn cante usually
do private classes with individual artists, which tend to be rather
expensive, underlining the prime importance cante has in this
art form. Domingo is one of the few in Jerez that offer classes and
has a very wide knowledge base of cante.
Domingo Rosado- Calle Manzano 8 Pago San Jose. Tel.
956 33 65 20
GUITAR
As a guitarist myself, I am intimately acquainted with the joys and
the frustrations of learning Flamenco. The following names are excellent
teachers which provide very sound bases for Flamenco guitar playing,
both styles from Jerez as well as beyond. Other people may prefer private
instruction, contact me and I may be able to put you in touch with some
of the local artists I've studied with who offer private classes. One
thing is for sure, there is no shortage of excellent guitarists in Jerez!
Guitarists may also
be interested in checking out the craftsmanship of Valeriano
Bernal, who now has a shop on calle Arcos,
near the flamenco bar "El Colmao". Valeriano
produces good quality guitars in his home village of Algodonales,
some 90km from Jerez, and his guitars are quite popular with Jerez guitarristas.
*El
Carbonero-Calle San Miguel 11. Tel. 956336797 / 956184822
Jose Luis Balao- Calle Gaspar Fernandez, 11 Tel. 956305993
Fernando Moreno- Calle Sevilla local 19. Tel. 956342243
FLAMENCO
RESEARCH
Jerez has the distinction
of being home to the only Flamenco research library,
El Centro Andaluz de Flamenco, funded by the Junta de Andalucia
and housed in the Palacio Pemartin, in Plaza
San Juan. The center has regular projections of documentaries
relating to the history of flamenco and its varied geography, photo
and art exhibits, workshops, and a decent library which includes a catalogue
of everything from video and audio recordings to scholarly texts and
sheet music for guitar. Bring your passport to access materials. There
are also occasional concerts,lectures and official presentations. You
can visit their website (in Spanish only) to access information on flamenco
events throughout Spain.
Program
for the Upcoming XII Flamenco Festival of Jerez 2008
FEBRUARY
Friday, 22.
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Maria del Mar Moreno– Mercedes Ruiz– Fernando Teremoto
¡Viva Jerez!
Special guest, Angelita Gomez
Javier Latorre– Paco Cepero– Francisco Lopez, artistic direction
Saturday, 23.
Sala Compañía
7 p.m.
Series "Con nombre propio"
Lola Greco– Carmela Greco
"De la opera al flamenco"
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Dance company of Antonio el Pipa
"Puertas adentro"
Bodega Los Apóstoles
Midnight
Series "Café Cantante" Ciclo Cantaores
José Menese
Sunday, 24.
Palacio de Villavicencio
7 p.m.
Series "Los conciertos de Palacio"
Elu de Jerez
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Nuevo Balet Español
"sangre"
Sala Compañía
Midnight
Series "Solos en Compañía"
Marco Flores
Monday , 25.
Palacio de Villavicencio
7 p.m.
Series "Los conciertos de Palacio"
Niño Seve
Miguel Lavis
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Isabel Bayon
"La Puerta Abierta"
Sala Compañía
Midnight
Series "Los Novísimos"
Maria José Leon
Tuesday, 26.
Bodega Los Apóstoles
9 p.m.
Series "Café Cantante"
Encarna Anillo- David Lagos– Jesus Torres
"Flamenco World Music"
Sala Compañía
Midnight
Series "Solos en Compañía"
Manuela Rios
Wednesday, 27.
Sala Compañía
7 p.m.
Series "Con nombre propio"
Miguel Angel Berna
"Rasmia"
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Rafael Amargo
"Tiempo Muerto"
Bodega Los Apóstoles
Midnight
Series "Café Cantante" / Ciclo Cantaores
Calixto Sanchez
Thursday, 28.
Sala Compañía
7 p.m.
Series "De la Frontera"
Marco Vargas– Chloe Brûle / "Flamenco x 2"
"Las 24". "Cuando uno quiere y otro no"
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Andres Marin
"El Alba del Ultimo Dia"
Bodega Los Apóstoles
Midnight
Series "Café Cantante" / Ciclo Cantaores
Capullo de Jerez
Friday, 29.
Bodega Los Apóstoles
7 p.m.
Series "Café Cantante" / "Ciclo Bordón
y cuenta nueva"
Bolita– P. Martin– Cepillo– P. Gonzalez– A.
Lefevre
"UHF" (Ultra High flamenco)
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Merche Esmeralda– Belen Maya– Rocio Molina– Diana
Navarro
"Mujeres"
Mario Maya, director
Sala Compañía
Midnight
Series "Los Novísimos"
Patricia Guerrero
MARCH
Saturday, 1.
Palacio de Villavicencio
7 p.m.
Series "Los conciertos de Palacio"
Juan Campallo
Juan Pinilla
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Ballet de Eva la Yerbabuena
"Santo y Seña"
Sala Compañía
Midnight
Series "Con nombre propio"
Rafaela Carrasco
"Con Cierto Gusto"
Sunday, 2.
Palacio de Villavicencio
7 p.m.
Series "Los conciertos de Palacio"
Sonia Miranda
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Manuela Carrasco
'Romali, Danza de los Gitanos"
Sala Compañía
Midnight
Series "Solos en Compañía"
Maria Juncal
"La Hora de los Milagros"
Monday, 3.
Bodega Los Apóstoles
7 p.m.
Series "Café Cantante / Ciclo Bordón y cuenta
nueva"
Pedro Sierra
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Estevez– Paños Dospormedio & Cia
"Flamenco XXI: Ópera, Café y Puro"
Sala Compañía
Midnight
Series "Los Novísimos"
Fran Espinosa
Tuesday, 4.
Palacio de Villavicencio
7 p.m.
Series "Los conciertos de Palacio"
Daniel Casares
Morenito de Illora
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Farru– José Maya- Barullo
"Al Natural"
Sala Compañía
Midnight
Series "Solos en Compañía"
El Mistela
Wednesday, 5.
Palacio de Villavicencio
7 p.m.
Series "Los conciertos de Palacio"
José Manuel Leon
David Palomar
Bodega Los Apóstoles
9 p.m.
Series "Café Cantante"
"Son de la Frontera"
Sala La Compañía
Midnight
Series "Los Novísimos"
Leonor Leal
Thursday, 6.
Sala Compañía
7 p.m.
Series "Con nombre propio"
La Truco– Inmaculada Ortega– La Talegona– Miguel Cañas
"Mis Mujeres en Esencia"
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Israel Galvan
"El Final de este Estado de las Cosas"
Bodega Los Apóstoles
Midnight
Series "Café Cantante / Ciclo Cantaores"
Ezequiel Benitez– Antonio Malena
Friday, 7.
Sala Compañía
7 p.m.
Series "De la Frontera"
Malucos
"Las Sobras del Festin"
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Miguel Poveda
"Sin Frontera"
Bodega Los Apóstoles
Midnight
Series "Café Cantante / Ciclo Cantaores"
Antonio Reyes– Manuel Moneo
Saturday, 8.
Sala Compañía
7 p.m.
Series "Con nombre propio"
Mayte Bajo
"Boca Abajo"
Teatro Villamarta
9 p.m.
Manolo Sanlucar
El Güito
"Maestros"
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